This topic contains 7 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  fraser20000 2 months, 2 weeks ago.

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  • #17890

    fraser20000
    Participant

    The boat I purchased has some extra rot that is a bit worse that i thought, I stripped it back to have a look and as can be seen

    This the larger area

    I had a dig about and the layers inside is fully delaminated so will have to replaced i think.

     

     

     

  • #17891

    fraser20000
    Participant

    this is the otherside, from my limited knowledge my best guess is a screw has began leaking, water was trapped between the layer and the main soft spot it the screw point i assume. that is the only bit that feels proper rotten.

     

    I think this all stems from the install of these lights although the larger leak appears to be a crack in the deck perhaps brought on by the holes cut in the roof.

  • #17892

    fraser20000
    Participant

    i have had a look about but to be honest I have a bit of trouble using the site, I found some posts that would let me source the wood for repair in 2mm or 3 mm, and the use of thickened epoxy. I am thinking of using 3 layers of 3 mm and cutting the entire light section out and replacing it. I can do alright wood working and was going to do some general reinforcement because a few areas have some flex i think due to repairs being done not with epoxy but the older resins.

     

    Any advice would be great but my budget is not massive and I have a section of the transom needing replacing to before i can get her in the water.

     

    To be honest i was thinking of epoxing in some ribs in the roof when I am done to make sure everything is solid.  this is my first boat and hope to do her justice and get her another 20 years so would like to do good work.

     

    Any advice would be great

    Cheers

    Fraser

  • #17894

    AOA
    Keymaster

    Hi Fraser
    I am sorry to hear that Blue Jackaroo has deteriorated to this extent. The deck problems you describe typically arise from the boat being stored uncovered through the winter.

    The good news is that people have been here before. I am sorry that the site has not been easier to navigate – I recognise that the search facilities are not necessarily as intuitive as they might be. Something I am working on but rather slowly. I use the ‘Interactive Index’ available on the Archive page, and the general site search option (top right ‘looking glass’). You will need to try a few searches as different people tag items differently – try ‘repair’, ‘deck’, ‘laminating’, and so on.

    With regards to laminating the repair the following may be helpful:

    • Annual Bulletins here
      • 2008-9 page 16
      • 2009-10 page 3
      • 2010-11 page 44
      • 2012-13 page 16
    • Mike Dixon’s recent post about his laminating on A1
    • There is also a Fairey drawing showing how to do repairs but shockingly I could not find it on the website. I will get it added and send to you.
    • As far as possible you should try to match the thickness of your repair veneers to the existing sound veneers – I suspect nearer the 2mm thant 3mm on the decks?

    For stiffening up the decks you can try Paper S from the Technical papers, accessible here. I have personally done this ‘doubling up’ on Helene and it has been extremely successful. I don’t think you will necessarily need additional ribs if you double up the decks from below.

    I hope the above helps. Good luck with the repairs and let us know how you get on.

    Cheers
    Nick

  • #17895

    fraser20000
    Participant

    Hi Nick

    Thanks for all this information. i will dig into it when i get a chance. I believe she was kept under a tent of sorts but the scottish weather is rough and she has been laid up for a couple of years i think.

     

    Thanks for the advice on the deck, I will have a look. Is there any problem with using marine ply for repairs on larger parts like the transom? with a layer of epoxy fiberglass? I also have access to a 3d printer so I am thinking of doing some experiments with abs laminated with fiberglass, I suspect the transom damage was caused the rudder cable wearing on the transom wall so will be possibly making some guides for the cables or something like that. i will try to document anything I do.

     

    I understand the complexity of keeping a site going with the march of technology, the site is better than most.

     

    Thanks again for your help, do you have a way I could contact you by email if that is alright?

     

    Cheers

    Fraser

  • #17896

    Chris Green
    Participant

    Hi Fraser

    The repair can be carried out by  laminating a veneer patch. The steps are quite straightforward – 1) Cut out the rotted area leaving a clean hole with sound structure around; 2) remove the outer and inner veneers back from the edge of the hole – i.e. outside and inside the coachroof leaving a step around the hole (shape can be square or oval): cut a central patch of agba veneer to fit the central hole and two outer agba veneer sections overlaying either side of the hole – about 50mm overlap should be okay.

    Mix epoxy -I use Gurit SP106, but West System 105 /205 does the same job – either should be mixed with a filler/glue  powder such as West 404 or 405 to thicken the epoxy. The final repair can be stapled and/or compressed to hold the repair in place. When finish sanded, the repair will be okay for final coat.

    There is a Fairey guide on this Drawing B 12388 which is specifically for the moulded dinPatch detail Fairey B 12388Fairey drawing B12388

    Best of luck

     

  • #17897

    Chris Green
    Participant

    Some of the message disappeared at the end – should say – the Fairey drawing extracts relate to repairs on moulded dinghies – but still hold good for Atalanta repairs.

    Chris

    • #17898

      fraser20000
      Participant

      this is fantastic chris, thank you.

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