Atalanta Mary left the UK in 2013. She travelled through the French canals and river to the Mediterranean, and then two years sailing around Corsica, Sardinia and Northern Italy. In 2016 I took the decision to bring her home. The plan was to get her from Pisa, where she had wintered in 2015, to France. She would then be trailed home.
This post links the individual posts about our journey home through the Italian and French Rivieras.
- Atalanta – more than the sum of her parts?
- Leaving Pisa to La Grazie (near La Spezia)
- 21 Aug – Florence, before we get afloat
- 22 Aug – Arnovecchio
- 23 Aug – Leaving the Arno
- 23 Aug – Past Lerici, Viareggio and Carrera
- La Spezia
- 23 Aug – La Grazie
- 24 Aug – Portovenere
- 25 Aug – Past Cinque Terre to Portfino
- 25 Aug – Portofino
- 26 Aug – Genoa
- Atalanta – more than the sum of her parts?
- 29 Aug – Savona to Loano
- 30 Aug – Alassio
- 31 Aug – San Lorenzo Al Mare
- 01 Sep – San Remo
- 02 Sep – To Monaco
- 03 Sep – Around Monaco
- 04 Sep – Antibes
- 05 Sep – Past Cannes to La Napoule
- 06 Sep – Past Agay to St Tropez
- 07 Sep – St Tropez
- 09 Sep – St Tropez to Le Lavendou
- 09 Sep – Hyeres
- Atalanta Mary had faired well through during her year at Arnovecchio and was in good shape.
- Florence, looking at Ponte Vecchio, oldest bridge in Florence.
- Hotel Gallery Art Florence. Previously they have been covered in bicycles and spoons.
- La Terrazzo Bar – trendy, great views, nicely done. And the most expensive beer we had at over £12 each!
- One of the many churches. Spectacular.
- Back into the water
- You can’t see them, but the mosquitoes were definitely there.
- Farewell Arnovecchio on a glorious, if not very windy day.
- Atalanta owner in his element. One hand on the tiller, other on the vodka bottle.
- One of the amazing shore based fishing nets
- And more of them ….
- Sail Handling the Aalanta way
- A camera can’t capture the magnificence of the marble-bearing mountains past Sierra, Carrera and Viaregio
- Sailing at last. This corner of the med is not the windiest, but we had a great sail today.
- Lyrics – the first of the impressive cliff-hugging towns we would pass.
- Lerici
- Lerici, on the way to La Grazie
- Still motoring.
- A short hop, under power in glorious sunshine.
- There were some fine yachts in the harbour.
- Schooners are definitely IN in La Grazie
- The church overlooking the harbour.
- La Grazie is a picturesque harbour, the more so for the presence of Atalanta Mary.
- These two yachts are operated by a UK Charter company
- The next step was a short hop through a break in the mountains to Portovenera
- Stunning- the blue sea, the magnificent fort and town of Portovenere
- It was very busy!
- View from the fort back to the East.
- Mooring blagged in excellent style by the Skipper. They were full but Alistair blagged this spot on the main quay pending the person who had booked it turning up. They didn’t.
- Picturesque quayside buildings
- The Tuscany coast at its most attractive – Cinque Terre.
- Looking back at Portovenere in the morning sun
- The for and church on the Portovenere headland
- Looking up the Tuscany coast towards the Cinque Terre – the villages hanging from the rocks overlooking the sea.
- Riomaggiore on the Cinque Terre.
- Manarola
- Vernaza. We picked up a buoy for lunch in water so blue and so deep! And it was so hot.
- Leaving Veranda towards Portofino
- We debated the cost of a night in Portofino but it had to be done.
- We had to follow this large motor yacht in.
- Inside Portofino awaiting Wedge Too, the motor yacht, to berth
- Wedge Too reverses into the quay – she filled the fairway.
- Wedge Too dwarfs everything
- The view from the cliff above the main quay
- Atalanta Mary was just about the smallest yacht in town
- A magnificent harbour.
- More gratuitous shots of Wedge Too
- A spectacular (if expensive) quayside.
- Portofino to Genoa was to mark a move to a more industrial and populated coastline.
- From the promontory between Portofino and the Mediterranean
- On the promontory to the west/
- The rather elegant loungers on the Wedge Too top deck.
- Wedge Too had various seating around the decks, all beautifully deigned
- Another area from which to enjoy looking down at the plebs.
- Yet another area for lounging around.
- The area at the head of the harbour is an art installation with many different features.
- … including these fine ladies
- And this one.
- Every morning all of the windows were cleaned by a crew member hanging from a car running on track under the handrail. The full length of the boat.
- The promontory behind which sits Portofino.
- Camogli and Recco marked the start of a very populated stretch of coat which stretched all the way to Genoa.
- Impressive stair block!
- Looking up the valley at Sori just to the East of Genoa
- The Genoa – a mass of docks, old and new buildings. There is a very large Marina to the West, amongst the industrial docklands. We headed for the more central Porto Antico
- … a food festival put on in our honour (?). But we ……
- … decided on a rooftop bar, over an upmarket food shop. Later that evening on the terrace behind the food shop we were amused by street entertainers.
- The next day we stayed to explore Genoa. One of the many churches.
- We couldn’t resist snapping this car.
- Genoa
- At Genoa we turned South.
- Leaving Genoa behind.
- Looking cool in the shade of the ad-hoc bimini rigged under the boom.
- The mountains inland of Cogoleto
- Looking toward Savonal. The yacht harbour is at the Western end of a long, industrial harbour.
- Loano was our next target stop.
- Samoan has a fine fort, with excellent visitor arrangements and a great view into the Med.
- And down the port peninsula
- The view from the fort into Savona
- Heading toward Finale Ligura
- We travelled South West from Savona rounding this headland just before Finale Ligura
- In Loano we entered a massive and half-empty marina. There was no clear guidance so we moored in a berth around three times the length of Atalanta Mary and headed for the Capitainerie
- We were allowed to stay. In the yacht club building we discovered this excellent rooftop bar where we dined one expensive beer and free nibbles. Oh, and the view.
- The beach at Loano, in the evening.
- We explored the colourful an narrow network of alleys in Loano.
- A gilded church
- The town hall. Interesting approach to accessibility!
- The beach at Loano
- And we sailed. An all too infrequent occurrence
- The port at Alassio is a mile or so the the East of the town.
- The marina at Alassio.
- View from the chapel at the road entrance to the marina, looking toward Alassio
- Alassio was busy but it was to prove difficult to find somewhere to eat.
- Our next planned stop was Alassio. It reportedly had some excellent tourist attractions.
- ALassio is famous for its wall of tiles signed by all and sundry celebrities. It was very impressive.
- We spent ages looking for one or two famous people’s plaques – very time consuming.
- Some interesting looking eateries
- San Lorenzo Al Mare had been recommended as a stop by an English guy working on a large boat at Arnovecchio. So that’s where we went.
- Leaving Alassio behind
- Impressive cliffs and roads.
- Saling off Imperia
- Imperia had a late marina and a lot of marine activity.
- Imperia
- The entrance to San Lorenzo was interesting – difficult to see until the very close in. It appeared we were heading for the beach and then a sharp turn to the left.
- Plenty of room. Doesn’t she look smart!
- San Lorenzo had hotel by the entrance to the marina with a bicycle theme. This bike is made of wood!
- San Remo was to be our last stop in Italy. We had been warned about concerns with migrants in ports nearer the border.
- It was hot. The shade of this tree was very welcome.
- A fine vessel
- Off San Remo. Flat calm. Very hot. Swim time!
- We had seen a solitary schooner drifting around from a distance. As we got closer it turned out to be a Schooner and 15m regatta.
- One of the 15m
- San Remo
- Schooner Elena
- Elena
- Schooner Mariette
- Elena meets 15m
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- The Schooner Cup and 15m Regatta, San Remo, September 2016
- San Remo harbour – the classics masts visible over the harbour wall
- Elena looked just as impressive up close.
- Child of Eleena’s owner (?) posing with Marietta in the background
- Elena’s impressive sail-handling gear.
- Preparing the topsail for hoisting next day. There had been an issue during the afternoon – witness the man walking up the gaff in earlier photo.
- That is one VERY long mainsheet
- The harbour
- Faded elegance in San Remo
- San Remo backstreets
- Time to cross the border. First stop Monaco!
- Approaching Monaco on another windless day.
- The small boat harbour, SW of the clifftop old Monaco. An impressive hole overshadowed but the the cliffs on which Old Monaco stands.
- Bimini in position.
- The main harbour was full of large motor yachts
- The small yacht harbour with Old Monace on the cliff top
- We spent a day in Monaco to wait for another crew – Jez. We visited Prince Rainier’s garage.
- Nice colour. And pretty
- And another pretty car
- And yet another.
- The Isetta. Tremendous fun
- A present to the Prince this is an amazing Fiat
- Looking over the main harbour from the top of old Monaco
- Looking down into the smaller harbour
- The square in old Monaco
- The impressive St Nicholas Cathedral
- The impressive St Nicholas Cathedral
- And the equally impressive entrance hall to the Oceanographic Museum
- The museum is laid out over many floors, each spectacular in its own way
- Alistair gets up close and personal with sharks in an open pool
- Stunning galleries
- Stunning galleries
- The view from the museum roof
- Old Monaco
- Tree lined footpaths overlooking the Port de Fontveille and Atalanta Mary
- Monaco harbour at night
- Port de Fontveille at night
- St Nicholas Cathedral at night
- The end of the holiday approached. The next stop was to be the splendid Antibes.
- Leaving Monaco afforded this great view of the Oceanographic museum
- Jez enjoying Atalanta Mary
- An interesting house on the way to Antibes
- Nice from Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. We were tempted ….. but resisted.
- As we neared Antibes we were enveloped in a race fleet
- Antibes was a great place. The marina was full of ‘normal’ size yachts. And the town of these statues.
- They were everywhere.
- Everywhere!
- Cannes was just around the corner and slightly beyond it La Napoule.
- Another schooner
- And a very pretty sloop
- Skyline statues
- Old Antibes
- The arches join the building structure to assist earthquake resistance
- Beautiful B&B, courtyard and statue
- Some of them were quite eerie
- A variation on the statues
- Leaving Antibes, looking back at the old port.
- On the way to Cannes we stopped to lunch at anchor off the Ile Sainte Marguerite. Along with a vast number of other people. It was a beautiful spot.
- The fort
- This motorboat intrigued Nick as it sped past – is there a strong hint of Citroen DS about the styling?
- Wind, sparkling sea, and misty mountains
- La Napoule is somewhere in that lot. A lovely sail.
- Sailing towards La Napoule
- The entrance to La Napoule.
- That boat. The roof of the ‘cabin’ lifts vertically on hydraulic rams for boarding and disembarkation
- On the way we stopped off for lunch at Agay. A delightful and popular bay.
- Swimming was called for
- They found Nemo’s new boat
- Looking out of the bay to the headland West of Agay
- Passing the headland. Some yachts were taking shortcuts inside the lumps of rock rising from the water.
- Bimini motoring.
- Sailing!
- We had a great sail towards St Tropez and the sunset.
- Sunset sailing
- We were all looking forward to the next stop at St Tropez
- All that was missing was Doris Day.
- Beautiful craftsmanship
- St Tropex alleyway
- St Tropex from the fort above the town
- Looking down on St Tropez
- St Tropexz backstreet
- Mary snugly moored just inside the harbour
- Journeys end – at least for the waterborne Atalanta Mary. This was closing the Mediterranean track of Mary which had started at Marseille 3 years before.
- Looking back at St Tropez
- The beacons were being pressure washed
- If you are going to waterski, not a bad boat to be behind.
- Squaresails going the other way.
- The crew continued by train to Hyeres from where there were going to pick up the train home. We will gloss over mistaken dates and having to buy new tickets.
- The hoist bay at Le Lavendou – a modern marina.
- Loaded on the trailer mast threaded under the hull. Ready to go home.
- Hayers was a charming town
- Looking for food and drink
- Hayers from the top of the hill
- Some of the many cafes
- Sunset over St Topez. The staging, orb, lights and other paraphernalia on the right hand quay were for Magic Johnson’s 25th Wedding Anniversary. He kept us entertained all night!