[fraser20000]

Thanks Nick, i had had a look at those 2 and mines looks like the second arrangement. I will get some pictures when I get a chance. We are thinking of using it this winter or possibly building a frame to cover the cockpit since she will spend it outside. Would this tent slide on when needed or do you leave it on generally?

 

Cheers

[fraser20000]

Thanks for the insight Trevor. Blue jackaroo does not currently have a deck and both hatches are being rebuilt so that should not be a huge problem. The engine I am looking at was removed for a new one but I will ask him why i had no thought of that. there is a video of it running and the boy seems to know his stuff. I was planning to have him run it up and let me see if either of the cylinders is getting too hot.  I am looking to get this engine for 400 or so max and a new prop. realistically I doubt I could afford a new engine as even second hand they cost 1200+ with a gearbox and new I was looking at 4 grand.

I missed the chance to get 3 dolphins for 500 with a boat but it would have cost me more to get ride of the boat it came with down in England. The Dolphin I have turns over well and has good compression so if it falls through I could just keep searching for spares.

 

The issue seems to have just resolved itself though because the engine has been removed from ebay. If anyone has a 12 hp or so Diesel with a gearbox or some old mark 1 Dolphins let me know haha.

[fraser20000]

Thanks Simon that is great to hear. I will check the fit and probably go for it. Your boat must go like a tug with that much power haha.

[fraser20000]

Most of my rot was small holes so I used fiberglass and epoxy. On the large bits like the joint between the bubble and the deck which fell off when I stripped back and laminated new wood in. My vaneer was pretty worthless so I used a lot of ply. Epoxy makes a great bond and I tend to wash it with the pressure washer and let it dry then go over with acetone. The delaminated areas I just felt around for and they tended to be below a leak. I mixed some epoxy I used West Coast but any on East Coast composites should work. If you heat the epoxy and the catalist to 40c or so apart in a warm bath then mix it will kick hard but will have a nice low viscosity and you do not lose the water proof qualities that thinning would cause.

 

I am winging a lot but its a wood boat so if you save em in any form they can be put back by someone in another 50 years so keeping them sailing is my main aim.

[fraser20000]

I kept blue jackaroo in my folks driveway for a year now and if anything she had dried out in bad area. Decent heavy tarps are a must and the ebay cheap ones will fall apart after a time. We would during a few big storms tie her down with the eyelets then run ropes over the top to prevent it lifting. Some long lengths of wood rolled up along the edges works great too.

From my experience the wood acts more like a composite and is fine being dry. I am stripping mine back and most of her is in mint condition other than small patches of fluffy wood which is I assume some kind of dry rot. You can knock on the side of the boat and hear hollow area which i had a few that I filled with epoxy.

[fraser20000]

Thanks for sorting it. i think its because I had not sorted the membership before I made the thread. I thought the first one I had just forgotten to send so if it seems I repeated myself that’s why.

thanks for looking into it and if I need to start a new thread or move this one i can.

 

Cheers for looking into it, You have my upmost confidence. I have no idea how to run a website let alone a forum haha

Cheers

Fraser

[fraser20000]

Hi Nick

I am not sure what leaded lights are but i was thinking of adding windows but with a ladder and outboard I think I will be struggling for space. You are dead on about the blister, I found a lot of water and a strong smell of the forrest after rain in it. I just kept digging back to good wood though.

I made a template to replace but as I often do made a mistake and cut the wood in the wrong direction. My old man is much better at that than me so he helped out for this bit.

I must have been having a bad day though, I mixed my epoxy and is good practise wetted out the surface with raw epoxy. the main reason from my research is that the thickened epoxy has less area to cling and is is possible dry wood can wick out some a dry out the joint. i then mixed up my peanut butter with filleting mix and microbubbles. I done my work then again as is good practise put the extra out in the open. After 5 minutes later chatting I noticed smoke coming from the tub. My scale took a wobbly and I think i added to much of the epoxy second part.

it has set solid but I have lost some strength for sure from the unreacted part of the mix.

my Failed attempt

 

old mans one

 

[fraser20000]

Thanks for the kind words Nick, she is getting much more done since I am not rushed now which is great because these problems would have festered.

I am not sure what leaded lighting is but I though of windows in the transom but not much use with a ladder and outboard mount planned for either side. I am up for anything on the bits I have rebuilt. I am considering once I have got the back looking flush attaching some really thin veneer to bring back the old look she had with the varnished transom. I actually had considered making her nameplate in epoxy with some lab chemicals mixed in to make the epoxy glow when exposed to light as shown by this amazing youtuber, he answers most of my questions which is rare and has amazing videos. Another is about epoxy with carbide and diamonds added similar to advanced concretes that might be great for coating boat keels.

I have some oxalic acid on the way for the rust spots, other than needing more sanding the wood looks perfect on the bubble so should take epoxy well. I am still thinking the repair though but I am going to try for a nice round inlay with the mahogany veneer I can salvage then I can put all the strengthening on the inside.

 

I am considering stripping the inside cabin  back to barewood on top so not sure about finishes that would let the inside wood breath or if thats a good idea but the thick house paint had moister between the paint and wood.

The epoxy will stiffen it up a bit itself hopefully. I considered putting some fiberglass between the layers but as I understand it in bending the center of a material is not actually compressing or stretching so not sure again. My epoxy is a bit more elastic than west coast, I had a great long chat with the rep who said a lot of boat yards in the UK use it.

 

Any general insight is always great as I am new to all this.

Cheers

[fraser20000]

I replied to you nick in my other post with update pictures but I think they have to be approved by the admin first.

[fraser20000]

Hi Doug

 

Thanks for the kind words,  This boat has lived outside under tarps for a year so far and lived in a tent before so she has some problems I have think have been going for years. the transom for example had been eaten by the cables on the rudder and dug in an inch or so into the wood. I have never do this sort of work so I try to post everything so people can avoid my mistakes if any come up.

From my research fresh water is the enemy. Thanks for the kind words. She will rest a few days while the rain passes and then I will start work on the bubble veneer. Not sure my plan yet either many layers of 2mm or a layer of fiberglass in the middle.

 

Cheers

[fraser20000]

Ah my reply jumped up, thanks for the advice Mike, I mentioned you above.

[fraser20000]

That is interesting Mike, I will document the 2mm repair and see how it goes. As far as i could find the original was 2.5mm or close to but I forget where I read it. A bit of reinforcement is never a bad idea.

Hope all goes well with getting her in the water, try to get a video of her for us to enjoy.

 

Forgot to say thanks again Nick, I went with 2mm mahogany so wee shall see how it goes, currently looking at paint strippers.

 

 

[fraser20000]

nice to see someone else is getting use from the thread too.

I have a question that is probably contentious, is there any big downsides to using another wood veneer like mahogany ? the only source I have found is Robbins timber and they say I can not get 2mm agba for 10 weeks. I would not mind the look on the inside and outside it will be painted anyway. Googling has not turned up much info.

[fraser20000]

Thanks for the great response Nick

I did a bit more digging and can see they are screws now. i only see them on one side though which confused me.

Thanks for the great advice. I will have a think and try to document what ever I end up doing. I might have a bash at removing them, cutting a new channel possibly in the head. Drilling them out and going for a bit bigger screw might work alright but as you say the wood under might be compromised.

I wonder how a metal pin would work epoxied into the hole. that way I would only be drilling the metal out and then inserting a plug back in.

[fraser20000]

this is fantastic chris, thank you.

[fraser20000]

Hi Nick

Thanks for all this information. i will dig into it when i get a chance. I believe she was kept under a tent of sorts but the scottish weather is rough and she has been laid up for a couple of years i think.

 

Thanks for the advice on the deck, I will have a look. Is there any problem with using marine ply for repairs on larger parts like the transom? with a layer of epoxy fiberglass? I also have access to a 3d printer so I am thinking of doing some experiments with abs laminated with fiberglass, I suspect the transom damage was caused the rudder cable wearing on the transom wall so will be possibly making some guides for the cables or something like that. i will try to document anything I do.

 

I understand the complexity of keeping a site going with the march of technology, the site is better than most.

 

Thanks again for your help, do you have a way I could contact you by email if that is alright?

 

Cheers

Fraser

[fraser20000]

i have had a look about but to be honest I have a bit of trouble using the site, I found some posts that would let me source the wood for repair in 2mm or 3 mm, and the use of thickened epoxy. I am thinking of using 3 layers of 3 mm and cutting the entire light section out and replacing it. I can do alright wood working and was going to do some general reinforcement because a few areas have some flex i think due to repairs being done not with epoxy but the older resins.

 

Any advice would be great but my budget is not massive and I have a section of the transom needing replacing to before i can get her in the water.

 

To be honest i was thinking of epoxing in some ribs in the roof when I am done to make sure everything is solid.  this is my first boat and hope to do her justice and get her another 20 years so would like to do good work.

 

Any advice would be great

Cheers

Fraser

[fraser20000]

this is the otherside, from my limited knowledge my best guess is a screw has began leaking, water was trapped between the layer and the main soft spot it the screw point i assume. that is the only bit that feels proper rotten.

 

I think this all stems from the install of these lights although the larger leak appears to be a crack in the deck perhaps brought on by the holes cut in the roof.

[fraser20000]

Pictures not working for me but is linked here

View post on imgur.com

[fraser20000]

Thanks a bunch for the reply Nick , I am in Edinburgh Scotland. She is actually linked on here she is named Blue jackaroo https://atalantaowners.org/a71-blue-jackaroo-sale/

 

The owner seems to have taken good care of her but i would love input from anyone willing to add it. The main problems

1. Rot in the transom

I plan to cut out the affected section and replace it with marine ply and east coast epoxy. I have some Fiberglass mixed strand so I plan to re enforce the area.  it is about 6 inches tall and 10 inches long

 

2. The hatches

All of the hatches are a spongy, I was just going to replace them but I am toying with cutting back to the frame which seems ok and then inserting acrylic windows and building a frame to help clamp them from the bottom. I have access to a large 3d printer so I can fabricate anything using printed molds (In theory)

3. The external bearing on the prop needs replaced but that is a small job.

4. paint peeling inside

I will strip and repaint but i was toying with just going back to wood and staining in the rear cabin and sealing with epoxy but I am not sure if that is a good idea.

5. the paint on the bow looks a little cracked but it might just be lots of layers built up

6. The other big job is a large crack in the mast

The owner suggested cutting down and staggering some new bits of wood and gluing with epoxy, I was thinking the same but possibly wrapping with some fiberglass tape and epoxy to add strength.

God willing all should go well, I really like the boat and should have her brought through to Edinburgh next week and I can start working on her in hopes of getting in the water for August.

 

Cheers for any  feedback.

Fraser

 

[Author]

Replies