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- Gregory ManningParticipant
I sail single handed but with the boat as was, and as a hanker. Whilst I have seen boats with lines to the cabin roof my concern would be the added strain on the blister which is was not made to take. I would think the most important aspect of such a modification is a bracket between the blister and the bulkhead to take the extra stress.
Gregory ManningParticipantThanks Dom,
I looked and the posts I saw related to flat glass, alas the outer surface of my bulls eye is shaped so I am working away with initially 400 grit W&D. I am getting there and have a 1200grit waiting in the wings before I hit it with Brasso! It is giving me an excuse for being indoors when the weather is crap. I am getting there!
Gregory ManningParticipantYippee I have managed to buy one second hand at a stupid price. Next job is to grind out the scratched and polish the outer face. Any advice form anyone? I intend to try fine valve grinding past first and then Basso followed by Silvo.
Gregory ManningParticipantJim,
Thanks. I am on the look out for one such. I have one on the aft hatch but is rather heavy.
Greg
Gregory ManningParticipantI should have thought of that as I have plenty of space there too. My problem is first getting into the cockpit from the inflatable alongside not helped by lifejacket crouch straps getting caught on the main sheet cleats!
Gregory ManningParticipantI do not have a ladder but I have seen them on other Atalantas. Where do you stow such a bulky item?
Gregory ManningParticipantTrevor,
As I mentioned, my first failure was of cable of the original spec, that is galvanized wire spun over a naturel fibre core. Having stainless steel cables is therefore not original and the original spec is no longer available. It has been suggested that the ss case hardens with repeated flexing which could be a factor in the problem. Changing back to a galvanised cable even without the fibre core might be an option which I could try. I am also guessing that the blocks have been changed too. I changed two of them due to excessive wear.
Thanks again for the input, all welcome.
Gregory ManningParticipantThanks Trevor,
I am sure that the fact that I have the rudder up and on a swinging mooring is the cause of the problem. Alas I dare not leave it down. I will try replacing the wipstaff lashing with a heavy duty shock cord as a temporary measure. This will reudce the strain on the cables but likely increase the amount of movement. My intention is to replace the cable with dyneema but need to source and make up the cable replacement in the fullness of time.
Aye
Greg
Gregory ManningParticipantJim,
Thanks for the feedback and I do see the sense in what you say. Alas I do have a potential problem with the depth of water at LWS so I do bring the rudder up when moored. It may not be a problem but I can not risk damaging the rudder if it does come into contact with terra granite.
Aye
Greg
Gregory ManningParticipantThanks Mike,
I am using TS Rigging of Maldon who I think rigged the Cutty Sark so have been assuming that they would be using quality cables but I note the reference to cheap Chinese. I have 5mm 7 X 19. I have more play in the system for the last season than before.
I can understand my first few failures as one was original and I used the wrong spec cable for the next two but I am on my second 7 x 19.
Tis a mystery!
You have me thinking that perhaps I should changed suppliers.
Aye
Greg
Gregory ManningParticipantThanks Jim,
I have considered tension as a factor. I have made sure they are never overtightened although I have had them tighter than I have them now. I have have two colleagues one a licensed helicopter engineer and the other a fellow pilot who has an HND in mechanical engineering. We are all used to working on, or doing prefight inspections of yaw control cables on helicopters which are kept tight. We are all scratching our heads as to the reason for my problem. The professional rigger I use says that the cables and blocks I have should allow a 180 degree change of direction and I only have 90.
I think the cables may be too thick but they are approved by the rigger man.
Thanks again for the thought.
Greg
Gregory ManningParticipantThanks Mike, you identify the conundrum I have with so many compartments. I will look into your suggestion and try to identify were I could mount the pump and route the suction pipes. I do have an electric pump in the engine compartment but I fear it would be of little use in an emergency particularly as the batteries may get flooded too. Laminating a copy of the insurance certificate may be an option!
Gregory ManningParticipantIf you go into the forward cabin there is a small amount of the keel box there. Remove the covers from the top and you should be able to see the forward end of the keels in their mechanism. Loosen off the big screw caps on the keel bolts and see if you can gently tap them with a two lb hammer to loosed any corrosion between the keels and the bolts. When you look into the mechanism from the forward cabin you might be able to spray in some diesel mixed with old oil onto the mechanism. Go for a drink , or two and then next day see if you can get a cold chisel between the keels and the plates on both sides and using that 2lb hammer try to loosen the keels form the plates. Be careful as if they come loose you do not want them to drop uncontrolled. Give me a ring to talk about it if you want. 01464 841394. I am free Sunday afternoon, I think!
Gregory ManningParticipantMight I suggest Robbins Timber in Bristol who might have suitable faced boards that would be ideal.
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