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Very cool with the drill. I helped to deliver a 63 foot sailing cat from St. Thomas to New York City . The boat had a generator. I was woken up on the day of departure to the sound of the generator running ant this big Milwaukee right angle drill with an attachment that fit a winch on it . The captain was raising the main sail with it. Worked great.
We mounted cleats on the forward face of the aft cabin bulkhead and used lines to tie the tiller as needed. For long passages we added shock cord in place of the lines to dampen the wind vane when it was fitted.
Hi Mike,
We are definitely interested to have one made, Le Bateau Ivre, (ex Bluff, Ex Sherpa), sail number 146, hull number 161.
Best regards and hello from the Caribbean,
David and Michelle
Interesting discussion I wish I had chimed in on earlier. My thoughts are definitely do not lighten the keels. The keels are your righting moment, which is your horsepower. The higher the righting moment the more sail carrying ability. With that in mind if the boat is to the point of the windward keel box out of the water I would definitely have the windward keel down. With the keel down the Vertical Centre of Gravity (VCG) of that keel is lowered by 2 feet or so, a significant increase. I agree on the ability to at least semi plane. We were off the south coast of Nova Scotia in 1996 and had a great breeze out of the north. We were beam reaching with the asymmetrical spinnaker on the bowsprit and full main and hit 8 knots consistently. The boat was not light, we had been living on her at that point for 2-1/2 months having sailed from Boston to Bermuda then to Halifax and all around the Canadian Maritimes.
Keep the boat light. Get weight out of the ends. Fair in the forward and aft ends of the blocking on the bottom around the keel trunks. As mentioned have good keel sealing strips. Get rid of roller furling, rig a down haul looped over the top hank, lead it to the tack then back to a cleat at the cockpit. Lighter and you can get rid of the sail much more quickly. Without the roller furling the jib also does not need the weight of the sun cover. Fair the keels and rudder. IF you have an inboard, get a folding or feathering prop. If an outboard take it off the transom and stow in the space under the cockpit seats. Rig a backstay adjuster, a simple way is to have a block on each leg of the backstay linked together with a block in the middle. Have a continuous line led from a cam cleat on one side of the aft hatch, to a block on the deck, up to the block on the adjuster, down to another block then forward to a cam cleat on the other side of the aft hatch. Makes it very easy to open and close the leech of the main, especially if you have a fractional rig. Clean the bottom. We moved the anchor chain from the bow to just aft of the main bulkhead. We are definitely going to be looking into synthetic rigging when we finally rebuild Le Bateau Ivre. Less weight although a little more windage.
Way, way overdue but I am in the process of completely lofting the later set of lines for rebuilding A146 (as in new hull and deck, have big pile of Agba veneer in shop downstairs). One thing to note is that I believe the hull lines are lofted to the inner skin.
Am kicking myself as way back in 1985 when got A146 had a pretty complete set of full size drawings but they went walkabout.
I am lofting the hull in Aerohydro Multisurf.
I imagine they added the volume aft to correct a trim problem.
Will have to compare but are the offsets you have drawing A 24522? I have the same problem as you reading the offset table. Actually have worked with a drawing printed out at as best I can tell correct scale and working off the lines themselves but having issues with getting the exact dimensions.
The forward half of the boat should be the same. Our boat is a 1961 build as best I can tell so definitely the later lines but plan on going inside at a couple of known points and confirming.
Michelle and I were going through our collection of Atalanta drawings seeing which ones we have and we both swear we saw one labeled Emergency tiller” but then we went back through them and can’t seem to find. Will look again. If we do have I can have it scanned in full size and email it.
Our Atalanta does not have any plate I have found, and believe me I have been over every bit of the boat. The only thing that seems to be an identifying number is the number 161 stamped into all of the removable plywood pieces such as floorboards. That seems to be a build sequence number but kind of strange that the production number would be on easily removable pieces. Our sail number is 146 but I was told some years ago that the production number (if that is what the 161 means) and sail number rarely if ever coincided. Could you post a picture of the plate? It would be nice to see.
