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Nick, In case of emergency I have an electric pump in the engine bay port side and also a manual one in the same place but to starboard, both discharge into the cockpit through the aft end of the hatch cover combing draining out via the keel boxes, this alleviates the need for hull fittings and sea cocks. I also carry a manual pump that can be used as a roving pump with long and discharge hose. The best “pump” however is a sponge as very little water enters the boat. Dom
Not sure what I have on Mourne goblins trailer will look when I get back from holiday later this week.
As Colin says oxalic acids the way to go not sure how easy it’s to get hold of as it’s classed as a poison, some years ago I got some from a furniture restorer. Even if you cannot get the stains out Id still go for the varnish option the staining adds character!
Robbie do you have a copy of the keel manual that Trevor updated a couple of years ago this will tell you all you need to know about keel? Unfortunately if you havent Trevor is currently away. Give me a ring if you need advise my mobiles in the year book or PM me.
Dom
I can’t remember get in touch with manufacturer they’ll work it out for you I think there may even be a calculator on their web site where you put in length, draft and beam Dom
Ive used copper anti foul and think its worth it just for the fact that you dont have to reapply each year as for how much you need the manufacturers will work that out for you if you give them some dimensions make sure you apply as per their instructions and rub down to activate it before launch.
Dom
quick google amazon lists 5litres for £15.20 or 12litres for £34.60 comes in 1 litre bottles I think if your ok to wait you can get it free delivery also various suppliers on ebay just search bioethanol fuel
Mourne Goblin has a plaque similar to A77 with boat number added probably by manual punch rathervthan engraved as its very faint
Sorry to hear of the accident you dont seem to have a lot of luck with other drivers! just a couple of thoughts have you tried contacting Martin Bennet re a welded stock he always seems to be able to fabricate stuff, or how about finding a trainee marine engineer to do one as a project Im sure the grey funnel line will have some spare alloy knocking about around the Clyde. The wooden stock seems like a good idea does it hold a standard alloy blade? At least a wooden stock will be quick getting you back on the water even if its as an interim measure whilst you source some one to fabricate one in alloy.
Dom
when I took this apart i needed to use a lot of heat on the collar to free it up from the spindle I also used a stilson with a pipe as leverage to spin the collar whilst wedging the inner spindle so that it couldnt move. I used a mix of oil and petrol as an anti sieze the petrol carries the oil into the mechanism by capilary action and then evaporates away (dont apply the heat until the petrol has dispersed) When heating be careful with the flame as its easy to scorch the wood.
Dom
Launching from Falmouth Marina Sun 28th July then have a mooring at St Mawes until 11th Aug during which time we’ll day sail hopefully to beach if the weathers good. Final week will be more moving around depending on weather may be up the coast or if weather not so good then around Fal and Helford let me know if you fancy meeting up
Thanks Trevor arrived in post today seems to be bumper edition so should keep me occupied over the winter whilst planning next years trip to the Fal.
Dom
Would be good to see you unfortunately cannot offer you berth as boats already fully crewed
John Ingleby said:
Great idea, I’d love to come, with or without Taka Maru. Never been to Falmouth, time I did.
Cheers, John
I had a similar problem and solved it by removing the wooden capping (sand keel) routed a groove the length of the hull between the 2 halves replaced the keel strip bedded onto sikaflex and screwed in place and then drilled a number of holes internally into the groove and poured epoxy down so that it ran along the length appearing at each hole to make sure that the groove was filled the theory being that the liquid epoxy would find its way into any voids as it ran along the groove if you could pump the epoxy into the area then the extra pressure would make sure that this happened. This process cured many problems however I still had some leakage which was solved the other year by stripping back the hull to wood then checking that any screws were in good order replacing and filling where necessary and then coating in flexible epoxy from reactive resins (discount available to assossiation members) and finally using their copper antifoul.
hope this helps you also need to make sure that there are no obvious areas of delamination which would need a proper repair.
not really my specialist subject but if you go for the larger capacity would it make the trailer too stiff so transferring any road shocks through to the hull?? a softer ride may be kinder to the boat just a thought
Dom
I believe faireys didnt believe in bilge pumps as one of their slogans was “our boats dont leak”. Ive installed an electric bilge pump in the engine bay and also a manual whale gusher also in the engine bay. I also have a gusher type pump and long hose stowed so that it can be used as a roving pump if needed, however I use a sponge mainly just to mop up those annoying leaks Ive also cut down a plastic pint milk bottle to use as a scoop.
regards
Dom
