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Btw, I use Delftship (http://www.delftship.net)
Hi David:
Roger on the 24522, apparent date 1957 (hard to read). I cross referenced C24229, A24200, A24168 & A24167 attempting to reconcile the illegible dimensions. C24229 is dated 21-2-56 & has good info. for Sta 2,5,6, & 9. I failed to consider that the lines were altered during construction phases. Yes the offsets are to the inside of the skin with ~ 7/16″ allowance for the skin.
I took a bit of a break this summer, but Blue Goose is still in slings & under cover behind my house in
Deerfield NH. I put in stringers and some planking either side of the keel cases, also replaced the after deck
stringers and support frame for replacement of the upper transom. Still a nice land yacht even if she hasn’t
floated in 20 years!
Cheers,
Tim
It is possible to super-impose the lines by scanning and scaling. This might be what I have to do, but I’d prefer to start
with better original offsets. The scaling of paper plans that likely stretched before scanning is also introducing error.
In regards to drag, yes the model can be used for full hydrostatics including adjustments of trim. The keels are modeled as separate components and then attached. Cheers, Tim.
John, Unfortunately, after speaking with Tim Arnold earlier this year I believe there is considerable work needed on Trio to float her.
I can add a bit more to this discussion. It is best to use a linear polyurethane (LP) coating over bare wood that has been encapsulated with epoxy resin. I have also used varnish (phenolic resin base mixed w/tung & linseed oil) to coat epoxy resin. It results in a slightly darker stain.
The oil based varnish stretches more than the wood, and the epoxy will stretch too.
In the future I’ll only use epoxy if I plan on sheathing or painting with LP, but I have not had a problem with either oil based enamel or clear varnish over wood that has been sealed with epoxy (kind of like using epoxy as the primer). I sand the epoxy with increasing grit sand paper, usually 80, then 100, 150, 220, & 330. I believe the advantage of LP over epoxy is because of a chemical bond but I can’t say for sure.
Some folks use the LP over the oil based varnish and claim it”s better UV protection and brighter. I can’t speak from experience on this approach.
It will be easier to strip it down again in the future with only oil based varnish. You’ll need a good respirator to avoid lung cancer and a lot of acetone and sand paper or a grinder to get the epoxy off if that is ever needed.
I have a solo12 dingy that shows the difference in varnish over bare wood vs. over epoxy, because I used epoxy as a sealing below the waterline. The difference is subtle. I’ll post a photo when I figure out where the wife hid the camera.
Tim
Hi Robbie,
Lots of work! I’ve used bleach for changing the color of stains but it never seems to get back to the same grain appearance. If it’s still structurally ok I’d call them character marks and varnish over. Trevor’s suggestion to use boiled linseed as a primer is good advise. You might be pleased with the look of that.
I’ve had good luck painting over a few coats of UV protected epoxy too, but I’m not going to suggest you do it. It’s your call. It’s a lot more work to keep the epoxy coat smooth.
Tim
What I stated below is not correct. The span distance between the rear and the middle chock is nearly equal to the distance between the bulkheads on either side of the cockpit, not from the aft bulkhead to the diagonal bulkhead. On the trailer shown in the photo the distance is 1911 mm, or 75.25 inches.
The drawing I was alluding to is C26826 which is for depicting how to tie the boat down. It does not have dimensions labelled but one chock is at the midpoint between the axles and the rear chock is at the very rear of the trailer.There are two chocks, or wood cradles on the A77 trailer. They are spaced the same distance as the main diagonal bulkhead to the rear bulkhead. I may have plan C24595 so I’ll check it later.
Yes, I think Trevor’s comments are more to the point. Don’t worry about the glue type just do good work. Also, there is a bit of guidance on hull repairs on plan B12388 if that reference number is still used. Filler powder with the West system epoxy products are what most people use and peanut butter is a good description of the viscosity. Other epoxy products are good too. Be sure to scrap off all the old glue. Most people don’t have any problems with UV and radiation, the effects of UV , radiation and salt take many years usually so as Trevor says it’s not a problem for most people. Wet out the epoxy on both faces of the lamination without filler first for best results.
Also, in regards to your question about the heat gun. It’s ok to heat the veneers before applying the epoxy but not after because the epoxy will “out gas” (creates small bubbles and therefore voids). Best to start with a slightly higher temperature and let it cool down. Humidity can be a factor too, do it on a dry day…. but in general epoxy is very forgiving. It’s easier to clean up the surface by removing the excess after a partial cure rather than sanding all of it after it hardens.
Rot is evident around the coach bolts (we call em carriage bolts, also fixings… an interesting term, I’d likely get some funny looks this side of the pond if I use it!). It’s good to know that glue joints alone have worked too and that does avoid the rot around the bolts. The glue joint from upper skeg to transom was still in good condition and it took careful prying to separate it last week even after the bolts where removed.
Hi Simon,
I’ve had trouble getting it apart too, nice to have someone to share the misery with.
Try heat and oil, if the oil is squirted after heating it’ll be drawn further in. I was able to
get a stuck brake rotor off this way which is similar in that the metal had corroded together.
This isn’t my biggest problem so I’ve put it on the back burner. I’ll give it another try soon and
get back to you.
Good Luck,
Tim
The original Duratorques may have been overbuilt based on how they performed on my recent
130 mile trip down the turnpike. One would really expect a few of the rust pieces that flew off to
have been vital. The trailer may even work with only 3 axles, kind of figured I’d be repeating Anthony Hopkins feat in
the Last American Indian (he used a branch in place of a tire for the last few miles)
Anyway, I’d go with the 2000kgs and carry sand bags and extra stuff if the ride is too stiff.
t
However, the skeg looks like its been eaten by termites and borers, they stopped at the planking… must be something
in the glue.
Blue Goose has a solid transom plank at the top as well, I believe the purpose of this is for durability…
sealing off the plywood end grain by design where water runoff from the deck would likely cause damage.
Only the edges of the existing deck planks along the transom where drainage is diverted have rot on A77.
